Tobacco has been targeted as a vile and evil villain in a society fraught with health scares and concern with hyper-hygienic living. In this somewhat self-righteous climate, it’s easy to forget that for centuries, the tobacco plant has held a strong place of cultural significance.
While cigarettes have been long considered frivolous, they have also been deemed to be brawny and masculine, as well as sophisticate and superbly feminine.
In perfumery too, tobacco has won its stripes. As a fragrance note, tobacco is as rich and versatile as they come. Forget that cold ashtray stench after a Saturday night party — if you need convincing on the merits of the aromatic strength of tobacco, enter a cigar shop and smell the difference.
But perfumery is probably the craft that knows how to make the most of the tobacco plant’s plentiful bouquet, with the added benefit of not requiring you to vacuum smoke into your mucous membranes.
Lately, as a commission for The Rake magazine, I have delved deep into the world of the most interesting and inventive fragrances featuring tobacco. What I came back with, on top of a newfound appreciation for fine tobacco, is a perfume that will most likely become a mainstay of my limited but well-curated (or so I hope) fragrance collection.
Enter “Cuba”, by London’s Jermyn Street establishment : Czech & Speake.
An imperious fragrance for sure, at the very least in its brash opening—a strong assault of bergamot, fresh tobacco, and lightly peppered mint soaked in rum and sprinkled with lime, underlined by a slightly blurry stroke of animalic notes (probably castoreum, or civet).
A defiant opening, dirty and plentiful, that will make the timorous shake their collective heads in disbelief. Those expecting, perhaps from the above paragraph, a kind of cheap mojito-style scent won’t find anything to suit their arguably questionable tastes.
At its core, Cuba becomes warmer and earthier as it loses some of its most rebellious accords – the animal stays, and becomes slightly sugary. Afterwards, a few subtle hints of earthy and musky roses bloom as the perfume continues to age. The tobacco then dries down and takes on a woody aroma amidst the fallout of the grand opening, set against a light base of laurel leaves rinced with rum.
Gloriously and purposefully messy, yet surprisingly coherent from the get-go, Czech & Speake’s Cuba is not unlike Guerlain’s Mouchoir de Monsieur in its dynamic ; from feral to tamed, yet always sophisticated.
A triumph in niche perfumery, and a newfound personal favorite of mine. Cuba is for those in want of something different.
++ : Those who enjoy unique perfumes will likely find Cuba a very interesting beast indeed. Check it out too if you are tired of fragrances that smell like shower gel. A rich and coherent experience overall.
— : Not as long lasting as it first seems, as the sillage and finale are surprisingly discreet (though this might be a plus in some regards). Those who find animalic notes repulsive should stay clear of this one.
——————–
From the same editor : The Elegant Rebel : Mouchoir de Monsieur
