Bespoke houses have long polished their skills and slightly altered their house style to adapt to trends en vogue at the moment (e.g., wider trouser hems, larger lapels, higher gorges, extended shoulders) in order to help retain clients over time and prevent the house’s tailoring work from appearing dated.
While some of us believe good tailoring equates with eternal elegant style and most “house codes” will last, others think tailors would do better to shift their style to coincide with the changing tastes of customers.
Small changes in a tailoring house style can be valuable to remain up-to-date but a some Grandes Maisons have a broader view on the subject.
Master tailors (and cousins) Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli are 4th generation craftsmen of fine tailoring. The Cifonelli house eagerly reinvents codes to remain relevant while staying close to certain codes that communicate their house style. The modernity of their garments bring a welcome fresh view to the world of tailoring, as shown in the Cifonelli collection of bespoke jackets and suits which are presented here regularly.
Designing new cuts and including unusual fabrics in his work is a strong part Lorenzo Cifonelli’s reputation, with extraordinary creations to boast—such as the SPY, a double breasted 6×1 suit in Japanese cotton jersey, the WHARTON, a sports coat also crafted in Japanese cotton jersey and the SUEDE, a sport jacket cut into a single piece of lambskin.
With a growing niche group with a keen interest in fine clothing, its easy for many big tailoring names to feel at ease with “business as usual” but Lorenzo Cifonelli is not of this breed, as a creative force runs through his veins. I have yet to meet such a perfectionist amongst men of the craft. Lorenzo will not stop in the midst of any challenge until he’s fully satisfied with the cut and fit of his creation for a fortunate and loyal international customer base. Paired with the technical genius of Massimo, a master of precise and clean cuts, I find the Cifonelli house to be unmissable for those who value fine tailoring.
French tailoring may not have the same level of popularity as the English, i.e., Savile Row, and may not have the mod reputation that comes with the “made in Italy” label, but French craftsmanship is generally considered among the very best in the world with hand stitching and finishing of a certain rare finesse.
With around 40 in-house workers, Cifonelli is among the biggest tailoring ateliers on the planet.
My first commission with Lorenzo was a travel jacket in a thick grey Donegal fabric. Six years later, I continue to wear this beautiful piece of tailoring often, and dress it up or down depending on the occasion. Lorenzo’s advice has proven critical in regard to fabric choice as well— as this fabric has not disappointed, despite harsh treatment due to my intense travel lifestyle (50% of my career time).
The incredible 6×1 double breasted suit revisited by Lorenzo with wider lapels, a higher buttoning stance and a slightly shorter length makes a grand impression and Lorenzo wears it supremely well. Commissioning the same model in a dark navy golden bale by H. Lesser felt only natural and the result proved to be outstanding. The coat holds in place when challenged and feels impressively light to wear. The trousers are exceptionally well-cut and feel very comfortable. The details of the craftsmanship are second to none. despite my having tried dozens of tailors around the world.
For both bespoke aficionados and lovers of fine clothing who are looking for a fresh view on tailoring, Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli will certainly create a garment to represent your personality and help you advance exponentially on your sartorial path.
Paul Lux
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Cifonelli bespoke : 31 rue Marbeuf, Paris.
Website : Cifonelli
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