On the subject of classic suits, the shift seems to be towards ‘higher standards’ for the niche crowd of men who takes dressing well so seriously that ‘suiting up’ has become a hobby or even part of an occupation. But for those who just want to look their best and have a sense of personal elegance, it’s easy to borrow from the habits of the erudite dresser.
Here are seven upgrades for 2016 that you may want to consider:
The silhouette can be thought of as a “cut out” of the body. In a full length mirror, the outline of the body can easily be observed to notice if the upper and lower half are in proportion While more recent years have celebrated men with skin-tight suited frames, the suit has loosened slightly–but not at the expense of keeping a nice shape and form.
Perhaps the skin-tight suit has been a revolt against the baggy sack suit, but a check-and-balance system seems to be in place, and a good suit can look well-fitted without being too tight.
Paying attention to your own silhouette and the silhouette of others is a simple exercise that can help you tune in to how you’d like to present your own body shape. If you own suits that do not complement your body shape, try the method of unbuttoning the suit coat and adding details like braces/suspenders or an odd waistcoat for visual interest.
Getting rid of a belt can also do wonders for keeping a flowing silhouette. If a belt is necessary, then choose a belt color which blends with the trouser color to avoid drawing attraction to the abdominal area and thus breaking the vertical visual flow.
Vintage-styled, unlined, and textured neckties make a strong statement, and are choices that have really caught over the last few years. A tie is centered under the face and runs down the middle of the body, so investing in quality neckties is an easy way to upgrade your look.
The vintage theme celebrates beautiful textured fabrics with designs like paisley and retro-patterns, while ties made of unlined mesh materials can also be pleasing to the eye. Also, solid colors with textured wool or cashmere adds a rich look to most any ensemble.
Changing the buttons on a suit coat can refresh the entire ensemble. Thrift stores, e-Bay, and antique shops can be fertile ground for scoring beautiful antique metal buttons. Horn buttons can be found at tailoring ateliers and alteration shops, as well as online sources for around 20 euros a dozen.
For a suit coat cuff which is missing one button, you may replace the missing button with a mismatched antique button. Even shirts can be upgraded by replacing boring buttons with mother-of-pearl buttons (either in white or mother-of-pearl stained in a color to complement the shirt color).
While buttoned braces are standard, clipped suspenders are now tolerated. Brands like Thurston offer braces that give you the option to clip or button.
Either way, braces/suspenders are back with a vengeance. This is probably THE style statement that has seen the strongest return in the last year.
Forget high-water trouser legs which spiked in popularity a few years ago.
But consider getting rid of the break in your suit trouser legs and opt for no break at all. It’s easy to have trousers hemmed and doing so keeps a nice flow from the leg to the shoe and allows you to show off your amazing socks.
One of the greatest upgrades that is likely here to stay, is attention to sock quality, colors and patterns.
Sock choice may seem like a small detail, but making the change to beautiful, high quality socks can lift your spirit all day long and provide a confidence boost.
Learn about pattern combining and matching HERE, and remember to buy socks that are long enough to cover the calf. Put as much time into selecting your socks as you do in selecting your neckties and you will discover a world of small pleasures. Most of us can afford a pair of socks, so why not indulge a little?
Gone are the days when any old pair of leather shoes would work with a beautiful suit. Men who dress well do not neglect their shoes.
Even if money is tight, there are at least five or six brands of shoes which can be bought on a budget that will pay tribute to a great suit (see PG Shoe Review Part 1).
Owning at least two pairs of great shoes will automatically boost your mood when you step outside. Since shoes are an investment, be sure to buy at least one pair of shoe woods and remember—the minute you remove your shoes at the end of the day, place the woods inside your shoes to maintain their form and integrity. This is one practice you won’t regret and a habit that will extend the life of your shoes exponentially.
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Opening picture : Calabrese 1924
1 : David Gandy, Photo @James Gourley, Mark and Jake from The Armoury, Photo @GQ.com
2 : Francesco Marino Napoli (two pictures) and Calabrese 1924 (last picture)
5 : Photo @Lupi_Alessandro
6 : Bresciani 1970
7 : Shoes by Paolo Scafora
