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“Maverick, it's not your flying, it's your attitude” - Iceman, Top Gun, 1986
Aviation history brims with captivating stories of record-breaking feats, spurring works of fiction with bold and virtuous styled-pilots on duty. Perhaps most notably, the strength of the pilot's attire is linked with the iconic "flight-jacket", ever-evolving since its inception. Elegance-in-aviation spans a long history, inspiring looks ranging from sporty to technical-wear to extravagant aesthetics.
During the early phases of aviation, the focus is on technical flight experiments, and as a result, newly minted aviators do not spend time thinking about wearing a specified uniform. In the 1910s, there are no restrictions on attire for those on the flight path; yet, the more stylish, the better! Aviation was viewed similarly to car racing during that era: it was a sport, but more importantly, a social gathering place.
Both aviators and spectator attendees are captured in photographs showcasing advancements made in aviation history. These aerial sports open new horizons for daring conquests, but they also prove to be a dangerous activity where accidents can happen.
As you can see, aerial shows and gatherings are viewed as grand events with attendees wearing elegant clothing. Happenings such as first flights eventually morph into also being sartorial shows, celebrating fashionable elegance in the open fields.
For practical reasons, many aviators chose to wear outfits inspired by racing drivers : bloomer pants, big fur coats and goggles. Due to wind and altitude, airmen trainees often chose warm clothing, or even turtlenecks, invented at the time.
During the Belle Époque, aviation themed-clothing becomes a fashion trend. La Revue de Sport in France reports on record-breaking aerial performances, leading to enthusiastic spectators dressed in an "aeronautical style" which becomes a regular feature in fashion newspapers. Oversized pants for women is a popular look, but only to be worn professionally, as the unconventional trousers are prohibited for women to wear in everyday life.
Harriet Quimby and Matilde Moisant are the first American women to obtain aviation licenses. They make a statement by wearing flight suits tailored to the female figure, pairing suits with wasp-waisted corsets that were in vogue at the time. Quimby even dares to add a hood to her suit, showing how function and fashion may collide to create a new look.
On the men’s side, you might sport a mustache or a boater hat, while pondering the most wind-resistant option for takeoff and landing. Ties are a staple accessory for both men and women in these trendy must-visit locations.
In 1914, as flights become longer, aviators opt for practicality over fashion. With newly reached altitudes, thicker fabrics and fur became commonplace.
The evolution of flight attire continues during wartime. German soldiers embrace leather jackets, while English troops wear leather-lined helmets and caps. Leather came to define the "airman style", with pants transitioned from suit trousers to military-inspired designs, as depicted below.
One new addition to the airmen's clothing is gabardine fabric. William Hobson, a mail-service pilot, creatively combines elements from two pilot suits to render a whole new look.
The war leads to changes in accessories as well. Gloves replace mittens since pilots require dexterity in using their index finger to take down enemy aircraft. Sunglasses resembling those worn by race car drivers are preferred over standard eyewear.
The airman outfit becomes a military uniform in its own right, celebrating tapered waistlines and knee-high boots.
Between the First and Second World Wars, the rise of civil aviation marks a new development in fashion. Major companies capitalize on the influence of aviation and nautical attire on the imagination of the public. Businessman Julian Trippe, managing Panamerican, decides to replace the official pilots' uniform with white outfits reminiscent of naval captains. Travelers do not miss a beat, and continue to use the inspiration to dress more elegantly.
Aviation and watchmaking have a longstanding connection. The renowned pilot Charles Lindbergh popularized the "pilot dress-aesthetic" becoming the first person to solo-cross the Atlantic at the young age of 25 on May 20-21, 1927, aboard his famous aircraft, The Spirit of Saint Louis. This groundbreaking achievement catapulted Lindbergh into fame as an American hero, embodying a distinct masculine ideal through his personal style.
After crossing the Atlantic, Lindbergh writes to the director of Longines, official supplier for the International Aeronautical Federation since 1919 (as well as for race judges since the early 20th century).
Lindbergh details the ideal design for a pilot’s watch, including navigation features. The watch is then created, allowing for calculations to pinpoint geographical positioning - with model replicas still being made. The French brand Lip has also designed a timepiece to commemorate Lindbergh’s achievement.
In 1926, women are prohibited from most US flight paths and not allowed to become airline pilots. It will not be until the 1960s in the US and the 1970s in France that women are finally allowed back into the profession and into cockpit roles. This shift turns feminine aviation-inspired fashion from a social concern into a demand.
Lena Bernstein, a pioneering aviator of Jewish and Russian descent, exemplifies the challenges women faced in aviation. The photo below highlights a significant issue women encountered after being excluded from pilot roles: obtaining suitable equipment. Lena Bernstein must fly wearing her fur coat, a luxurious and elegant garment not practical for long flights.
Some female aviators are influenced by their male counterparts, like Amelia Earhart, who becomes a renowned icon of aviation adventure. In 1932, she becomes the first woman to solo-cross the Atlantic, followed by flying from Hawaii to California in 1935. Despite her fame, she faces challenges in a male-dominated aviation world. Earhart embraces a blend of classic masculine fashion in her personal style, including pleated pants, cardigans, shirts, and leather jackets.
Away from the skies, female aviators draw attention if they wear trousers. Pilot Adrienne Bolland has to change in her cockpit in front of journalists, putting on a skirt before heading to social events. Some opt for small heels or espadrilles with their flight suits on the airfield to avoid shocking their colleagues who may find traditional men's shoes unconventional.
The actress Katharine Hepburn, pioneer of a more androgynous silhouette - and fashion icon we talked about in a recent article - poses in front of a plane in 1935, dressed with masculine clothes and flat shoes - an artistic as well as a militant gesture.
During the interwar period, the pilot-style emerges, elevating these men to heroic status for their bold and adventurous qualities. Maintaining traditional attire of trousers, shirt, and tie, pilots often add an A1 jacket to their ensemble. Initially introduced in 1927 within the US air military, the A1 jacket is known as “Urfliegerjacke” or “original flight jacket.” This jacket is typically crafted from leather or windbreaker fabric, with knitwear for the sleeves and lower section.
The A1 model is soon succeeded by the A2 jacket, which incorporates a zipper - newly invented in the 1930s - along with a fur collar and shoulder tabs. Around the same time, the G1 jacket is created specifically for US pilots. Eventually, it becomes a staple in aviator fashion, distinguished by its fur collar - often made of sheepskin - and the absence of shoulder tabs. The iconic bomber jacket style we recognize today as MA1 emerges in the 1950s, replacing the A2 jacket.
Four decades after its debut in World War II, the popularity of the G1 jacket resurges with a vengeance, when worn by fictional character Pete "Maverick" Mitchell, the main protagonist in the Top Gun franchise. Tom Cruise's portrayal of Maverick in 1986 also catapults the Ray-Ban Aviator, in particular the RB3025 model - which remains an international sensation to this day.
We expect more aviation-themed sartorial experiments to come. While experimentation with the classic suit may be seen by some as sacrilegious, another view is that sartorialists are simply borrowing from stories of the past through their clothing choices. The sometimes perceived "bizarre-combinations" of casualwear mixed with dresswear may not be so bizarre after all, when one considers the historical context of how elegant and adventurous people dressed in the past to meet both functional and elegant purposes.
Today, I find it to be a bold and artistic move to give a sartorial outfit a nice twist, perhaps with a pilot jacket or a pair of boots !
Sources :
Guillaume de Syon, Aviateurs et aviatrices, "beautiful people" des Années Folles, podcast published April, the 16th, 2019 by the Institut Français de la Mode
Cover picture :
Charles A. Lindbergh standing by his plane, the "Spirit of St. Louis", circa May 31, 1927 ; picture restaured by Crisco 1492, June the 24th, 2013
[1] Photograph under Creative Commons licence, via Wikimedia Commons
[2] Photograph under Creative Commons licence, via Wikimedia Commons (source Flickr)
